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Songket Bima, Warna Warni Kain Tradisional NTB

Beberapa daerah di Indonesia mempunyai kain tradisional khas daerah, diantaranya kabupaten Bima di Nusa Tenggara Barat (NTB). Masyarakat Bima terkenal dalam membuat kerajinan kain tenun. Namanya, songket Bima atau Kain Mbojo yang artinya kain orang Bima. Kain tenun ini sudah ada sejak zaman kerajaan Bima yaitu kerajaan Dompu. Songket Bima sering digunakan para wanita sejak zaman itu.

Songket Bima dan Sejarahnya
Kerajaan Dompu adalah kerajaan Islam terkenal di bagian timur Nusantara. Masyarakat Bima pada zaman Kerajaan Dompu menggunakan songket Bima untuk pakaian sehari-hari. Saat itu diberlakukan  peraturan adat. Setiap wanita usia remaja harus terampil menenum. Nantinya, kain dapat digunakan untuk dipakai sendiri atau dijual kembali sebagai mata pencaharian.
Wanita di Bima mengenakan kain Mbojo yang dibalut pada kepala semacam hijab dan disebut sebagai rimpun. Ada perbedaan penggunaan rimpun antara wanita yang belum menikah dan wanita yang sudah menikah. Bila wanita tersebut belum menikah, rimpun dipasang menutupi seluruh wajah. Hanya memperlihatkan kedua matanya. Sebaliknya, wanita yang sudah menikah boleh memperlihatkan wajahnya dalam menggunakan rimpun.
Rimpun dipakai sebagai pakaian wajib bagi wanita muslim Bima. Yaitu saat hendak keluar rumah atau berpergian. Berdasarkan status sosial, ada dua macam rimpun yaitu rimpun cili dan rimpun colo. Rimpun cili adalah sejenis sarung tenun yang dibuat khusus untuk wanita Bima belum menikah. Sedangkan rimpun  colo dibuat untuk wanita Bima yang sudah menikah.
Namun seiring berjalannya waktu, rimpun mulai ditinggalkan. Saat ini sebagian besar wanita Bima memakai pakaian modern dan jilbab. Meskipun masih ada sebagian kecil yang tetap melestarikan  budaya dengan rimpu.

Ragam Songket Bima
Songket Bima atau kain Mbojo memiliki beragam jenis beserta fungsinya masing-masing. Secara umum ada empat jenis kain Mbojo.
1.      Tembe
Tembe adalah sarung yang ditenun secara tradisional. Tembe terbuat dari benang kapas. Ada dua jenis Tembe atau sarung yaitu Tembe Songke atau Sarung songket dan Tembe Kafa na’e. Tembe songke memiliki warna dasar coklat, hitan dan merah hati. Benang untuk Tembe Songke bukan berasal dari Bima namun berasal dari Singapura dan Malaisya.
Motif Tembe Songke berupa garis-garis kecil dipadu dengan motif bunga satako, samobo, kakando dan pado waji. Agar lebih indah motif tersebut dihiasi dengan benang emas dan perak sedangkan Tembe kafa Na’e merupakan sarung tenun dengan bahan benang khusus dari penenun itu sendiri.
2.      Sambolo
Sambolo atau dester kerap disebut juga sambolo songke. Yaitu sejenis ikat kepala tradisional Mbojo khusus untuk laki-laki Bima. Dulu, peraturan  adat mewajibkan laki-laki Bima yang sudah memasuki usia remaja untuk mengenakan sambolo. Sambolo sering disebut sebagai hasil tenun unggulan Bima setelah Tembe.
3.      Weri
Weri adalaha ikat pinggang tradisional Mbojo terbuat dari Malanta Salolo. Yaitu kain putih polos yang khusus ditenun untuk salolo. Warna Weri beraneka ragam mulai dari kuning, coklat, atau merah hati. Dihiasi pula dengan motif bunga  kakando, satako, dan pado waji.
4.      Baju Mbojo
Adalah hasil kreasi penenun wanita Bima yang mulai dikenal sejak tahun 1980an. Motif dan warna sarung Mbojo sama dengan songket Bima hanya dikombinasi dengan motif-motif baru.

Penenun Mbojo
Penenun kain  Mbojo terpusat di kampong Cempaka Indah kabupaten Bima. Disana, kain Mbojo dijual rata-rata dengan ukuran 1 kali 4 meter. Waktu pembuatannya bervariasi, ada yang dibuat dengan waktu 3 bulan. Namun, ada juga yang dibuat hingga setahun.
Harga songket bima perlembar juga bervariasi yaitu pada kisaran Rp 500.000, tergantung dari lama pembuatan dan kerumitan motifnya. Di situs online www.tokotenun.com, anda dapat melihat harga dan ragam motif kain songket Bima terkini.
Selain dikenakan untuk pakaian sehari-hari masyarakat Bima, banyak perancang busana yang mendesain jadi baju tenun. Melirik keunikan motif kain Mbojo. Salah satu perancang yang getol mengusung motif kain Bima adalah Dian Pelangi.
Dara berhijab ini menceritakan, kain tenun dari NTB termasuk songket Bima dan songket Lombok banyak digemari masyarakat Amerika Serikat (AS). Alasannya karena ketebalannya dan warna-warninya yang indah. Terbukti  saat pertama kali muncul di ajang fashion Amerika, kultur Fashion Week, New York Febuari 2015. Tenun dari NTB langsung menjadi pusat perhatian desainer dan masyarakat yag hadir.

  Source of article :

 Songket Bima, NTB Colorful Traditional Cloth

Some areas in Indonesia have traditional fabrics typical of the region, including at Bima in West Nusa Tenggara (NTB). Bima community known for making handicrafts woven fabric. His name, or the Milky songket cloth fabric Mbojo that means the Milky. Woven fabric has been around since the days of the Milky kingdom is the kingdom of Dompu. SongketBima often used by women since that time.

Songket Bima and history

Dompu kingdom is famous Islamic kingdom in the eastern part of the archipelago. Bima community in the days of the Kingdom of Dompu using songketBima for everyday wear. Of the then current customs regulations. Every woman should be skilled menenum adolescence. Later, the fabric can be used for their own use or resale as a livelihood.

Women at BimaMbojo wearing rags wrapped in a kind of hijab head and called rimpun. There are differences in the use of rimpun between unmarried women and married women. If the woman is not married, rimpun installed to cover the entire face. Only her eyes showing. Instead, the married woman should show his face in using rimpun.

Rimpun used as mandatory attire for Muslim women Bima. That is when they want to go out or travel. Based on social status, there are two kinds of chili and rimpun namely rimpunrimpuncolo.Rimpun chili is a type of sarong that is made specifically for women Bima unmarried. While rimpunBimacolo made for women who are married.

But over time, rimpun becoming obsolete. Nowadays most women wear modern clothes Bima and headscarves. Although there is still a small part that still preserve the culture with rimpu.

Variety SongketBima
SongketBima or fabric Mbojo has various kinds along with their respective functions. In general there are four types of fabric Mbojo.
1. Tembe
Tembe is traditionally woven sheath. Tembe is made of cotton yarn. There are two types of gloves that TembeTembe or Songke or songket sarongs and TembeKafana'e. Tembesongke have a brown base color, Hitan and red hearts. Yarns for TembeSongke not from the Milky however come from Singapore and Malaisya.
Motif TembeSongke form of small lines combined with floral satako, samobo, kakando and Padowaji. To be more beautiful motifs were decorated with gold and silver thread while TembeKafaNa'e a sarong with a special yarn material from the weavers themselves.
2. Sambolo
Sambolo or dester often referred to Sambolosongke. Is a kind of traditional headband Mbojo specifically for men Bima. In the past, customs regulations require Bima men who had entered their teens to wear Sambolo. Sambolo often referred to as the weaving featured Milky after Tembe.
3. Weri
Weriadalaha traditional Mbojo belts made of MalantaSalolo. Ie plain white fabric specially woven for salolo. Weri diverse colors ranging from yellow, brown, or red heart. Similarly decorated with floral kakando, satako, and Padowaji.
4. Clothes Mbojo
Is the creation of the Milky woman weaver who began to be known since the 1980s. Motifs and colors together with songket sarong Mbojo Milky only combined with new motifs.

Weaver Mbojo

Mbojo cloth weavers centered in the village of Cempaka Indah Bima district. There, Mbojo fabrics sold on average with the size 1 by 4 meters. The construction is varied, there is made with a time of 3 months. However, there is also made up to a year.

Price songketbimaperlembar also vary in the range of Rp 500,000, depending on how long the manufacture and complexity of motives. Www.tokotenun.com on the online site, you can see the prices and variety of the latest Milky songket motifs.

In addition to clothing worn for everyday people Bima, many fashion designers who design so woven clothing. Glancing Mbojo unique motifs. One of the designers are keen to carry the motifs Bima is Dian Pelangi.

Dara tells the hijab, woven fabrics including songket from NTB Bima and Lombok much-loved community songket United States (US). The reason is because of its thickness and the colors are beautiful. Evident when it first appeared in the arena of American fashion, culture Fashion Week, New York February 2015. Weaving of NTB directly into the center of attention of designers and society who were present.

Translated by : Google Translate























BimaSungkit, ColorfulTraditional Fabric of NTB

Some areas in Indonesia have speciality traditional fabric of the region, including Bima in West Nusa Tenggara (NTB). Bima communities are known for making handicrafts woven fabric. Its name, BimaSungkitor  Fabric of Mbojo that means fabric’s Bima people. This woven fabric has been around since the Dompu kingdom. BimaSungkit often used by women since that time.

BimaSungkit and Its History

Dompu kingdom is famous Islamic kingdom in the eastern of archipelago. At the time of Dompu Kingdom, Bima communities are wearing BimaSungkit for everyday wear. Wearing BimaSungkit prevail as customs regulations. Each teenager must skilled in weaving. Later, the fabric can be wear their own or resale as a livelihood.

Bima women are wearing Mbojo fabric for headband called rimpun like veil. Based on the function, wearing rimpun between unmarried women and married women are different. If the woman is not married, rimpun used to cover the entire face except their eyes. The other way, a married woman should show her face in using rimpun.

Rimpun wore as mandatory attire to Muslim women Bima, that is when woman to go out or travel. Based on social status, there are two kind of rimpun namely rimpuncili and rimpuncolo.Rimpuncili is a type of woven sarong that is made specifically for unmarried woman. While rimpuncolo made for married woman.

However, rimpun is becoming obsolete. Nowadays most of woman wear modern cloth and veil. Although there is still a small part of society that preserve rimpun.

Variety of BimaSungkit
BimaSungkit or Mbojo fabric has various kinds along with their respective functions. In general, there are four types of Mbojo fabric.

1. Tembe
Tembe is traditionally woven sarong. Tembe is made of cotton yarn. There are two types of  Tembe or Sarong that is  SungkitTembe or Sungkit Sarong and TembeKafana'e. SungkitTembe has base color like brown, balck and maroon. Thread for SungkitTembenot from the Bima however come from Singapore and Malaisya.

Motifs of SungkitTembe are small lines combined with floral satako, samobo, kakando and Padowaji. To be more beautiful, motifs of SungkitTembe are decorated with gold and silver thread while TembeKafaNa'e is woven sarong with a special thread material from the weavers themselves.

2. Sambolo

Sambolo or desterto can also be called SamboloSungkit iskind of traditional Mbojoheadband specifically for men Bima. In the past, customs regulations made something compulsory to Bima men who had entered their teens to wear Sambolo. Sambolo often called as the best woven fabric after Tembe.

3. Weri

Weri is traditional Mbojo belts made of MalantaSalolo is plain white fabric specially woven for salolo. Weri has variety colors from yellow, brown, or maroon. Weri also decorated with floral kakando, satako, and Padowaji.

4. Clothes Mbojo

Clothes Mbojo is creation of the woman weaver who began to be known since the 1980s. Motifs and colors of Mbojo Sarong same like BimaSungkit, diffence is only in combination of news motifs.

Weaver Mbojo

Mbojo fabric weavers centered in the village of Cempaka Indah, Bima. Mbojo fabric sold on average with the size 1 to 4 meters. The time of production is varied, there is made up 3 months. However, there is also made up until a year.

BimaSungkit prices are varied from Rp 500,000, depending on how long the production and complexity of motifs. On the online site (www.tokotenun.com), you can see the prices and variety of the latest Bimasungkit fabric motifs.

In addition to wear for everyday Bima people, many fashion designers who design become woven clothing because they are interested by the unique fabric Mbojo motifs. One of the designers who active to carry the Bima fabric motifs is Dian Pelangi.

Dian Pelangi told the woven fabric from NTB including Bima and Lombok sungkit much-loved community in the United States (US). The reason is because of its thickness and colors are beautiful. Evident, when it appeared for the first time on February 2015 in the American fashion, culture Fashion Week, New York. Weaving of NTB has been center of attention of designers and people who were present.


 Translated by Awwaliyaty Rahmaniyaty


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